Travel Letters

L'viv: My Guide Nataliya

L'viv

pop 728,350

Ukraine

June 10. 2018

 

Nataliya is my excellent, imformative and gracious guide here in L'viv.

We wander together in the City Center, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and then climb the hill for a panoramic view.

I am intrigued by an image of Christ atop the old Chapel of Boim. The figure is seated in a thoughtful pose that reminds me of "The Thinker," the Auguste Rodin sculpture.  Is there any connection between the two?

I am especially saddened at the site and the ruins of the Golden Rose Synagogue.  Also known as the Nachmanowicz Synagogue, it was the oldest Jewish place of worship in Ukraine.  The synagogue was built in 1582 and was destroyed by the Nazis 1942.

L'viv: Morning Glow - Evening Shadows

L’viv

Ukraine

June 8, 2018

The long history of L’viv is complicated and bloody.

Settled as early as the 5th Century, L’viv has been invaded and occupied and settled by Tartars, Poles, Swedes, Hungarians, Turks, Austrians, Czechs, Germans and Russians.  Before the War, Jews made up 30% of the local population.

The varied cultures have left their mark on this now colorful and photogenic city.

Kiev: Andriyivsky Uzviz

Andriyivsky Uzviz*

Kiev - Kyiv

Ukraine

June 5, 2018

 

Once again, I climb the hill behind the Gintama Hotel towards Sophia Plaza and this time I wander down another steep cobbled street-  *“Andrew’s Descent” - towards the Podil district.

Modern sculptures and murals adorn the quaint buildings. 

St. Andrew’s Church (1754) is one of the highlights on this excursion.  This stunning gold and blue traditional five-domed church was built by Italian architect Bartolomeo Rastrelli who also designed the Winter Palace in St. Petersburg. 

Kiev: Two (Incorrect) Assumptions

Kiev or Kyiv

Київ - Ukrainian

Киев - Russian

pop 2,900,000

Ukraine - Україна

June 2, 2018

 

Kiev is a big city.  Come stroll with me.  Hike, actually.

On my first day, from the Gallery Gintama Hotel, I climb up the steep hill towards the enormous, gold-domed, blue St. Michael’s Monastery.

In St. Sophia Square I spot a monument to Princess Olga, a demure wife and mother who became a vicious and vengeful ruler.  Nearby, a monument to Bohdan Khmelinytsky dominates the square - a hero to many and a prejudiced and bloody villian to others. 

In the square, I chance upon a large demonstration.  Many children are in attendance along with their parents, grandparents and clergy.   What is the occasion?

Orvydas Garden: Oddities

Palanga

Lithuania

September 16, 2014

My guidebook says it’s “Worth a Trip.” 

So from this coastal city of Palanga I drove east towards the town of Kretinga and then northeast towards the village of Salantai to see Orvydas Garden, “…one of the most unusual sights in all of Lithuania.” *

The Orvydas Garden was the work of stonemason Kazys Orvydas (1905-89) and his oldest son turned Franciscan monk Vilius (1952-92).  The carvings were originally created for the village cemetery in nearby Salantai but were brought here to the Orvydas homestead after then Soviet leader Nikita Khrushchev turned his wrath on religious objects in the 1960’s.  The Soviets later blocked access to the house to prevent visitors getting to the persecuted Orvydas family.”*

The Jews of Suriname

Paramaribo
Suriname
February 5, 2018
 
Jews arrived in Suriname in large numbers in the late Seventeenth Century.  They became successful plantation owners out in the savanna.   The area is called "Jodensavanne."   They built a substancial brick synagogue they named Beracha v' Shalom (Blessing and Peace).
 
Because of disruptions in the sugar trade, they eventually moved to the capital Paramaribo.  They built the magnificent wooden synagogue Neve Shalom,1837 (Oasis of Peace)  that is still in use by the diminished community.  The smaller Zedek v' Shalom Synagogue (Justice and Peace) built in 1735 is currently rented to a computer company.

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