Cairo

The Arab Republic of Egypt

December 23, 2011

Dear Family and Friends,

For the final day trip of our visit to Egypt, my friend Ralph Velasco and I considered three possible destinations: the Suez Canal, the Camel Market or the agricultural area south of Cairo.  We decided to head south, out of Cairo, to explore the area and see the sights.*

Bizarre!   The City of the Dead or Cairo Necropolis is in southeastern Cairo.  It is a 4 miles (6.4 km) long dense grid of tomb and mausoleum structures, where some people live and work amongst the dead.  Some are paid to care for the tombs.  Some reside here to be near ancestors, of recent to ancient lineage.  Some live here after being forced from central Cairo due to urban renewal demolitions and urbanization pressures.  They all live in a cemetery.

At the City of the Dead, we stopped at the massive Tomb of Mohammad Ali.  The sarcophagus of Ali and dozens of Ali’s family members are on display in the dark and solemn chambers.

At these stops, as well as the other important sites near Cairo, I feel that I have travelled to the Republic of Egypt.   But at today’s destinations - the countryside, the agricultural towns and the street markets – I have a different feeling.  I feel that I am truly in Egypt.As I wander through the dusty streets of Dahshur, the small town in the faint shadow of the Saqqara pyramids, the men driving their horse carts and donkey carts display a stern inscrutable look.   But when I smile and wave, they return a smile and wave.