Rafsanjan City

(pop. 137,000)

Kerman Province

Iran

May 25, 2022

Hello,

On the drive north from Kerman City to Yazd, we stop for lunch where we meet a group of pistachio farmers. (Rafsanjan is known as the largest producer of pistachios in the world.) Ali invites us to visit his farm.   How can we refuse?

After a leisurely snack and drink, Ali introduces us to his foreman and the Afghani workers.  In Iran, Afghanis are a highly respected group.  They arrive on time, put in a full day’s work, and are scrupulously honest.  (Apparently in Iran there are now four million Afghanistan immigrants/exiles/refugees.)

Ali takes us on a tour of his farm including the production and storage areas. He is quite proud.  And like everyone else I meet in Iran, overly generous.  

Ali invites us to stay overnight at his home.  When we explain that we have hotel reservations in Yazd, he is disappointed but understanding.  As a parting gift, Ali presents us each with a one kilo bag of his precious product.

Back on the road Mehran and I visit the Haj Agha Ali House, known as Zaimullah Rafsanjani.  The 86-room mansion is the largest adobe (mud and straw structure) in the province, or in Iran, or in the world?  The luxurious interior is closed but the exterior is impressive. *

In the evening, we pull off the highway and relax with tea at the Sixteenth Century Zein-o-Din Caravanserai, now a refurbished “Bed and Breakfast” for the modern traveler.  The floors and furniture are covered with Persian rugs and pillows, and oh so comfortable.  Shall we stay? 

Yazd awaits our arrival.

Another wondrous day in Iran.

Full of surprises and incomparable Persian Hospitality.

Jan

*At 6 km from Rafsanjan city of Kerman province lies one of the largest and most beautiful brick houses in the world. Haj Agha Ali's house, known as Zaimullah Rafsanjani, has an interior area of ​​7,000 square meters and an overall area of ​​12,000 square meters.  The building has 86 rooms that have been built in four main parts: the royal residence, the pool house, the autumn and winter residences.

Haj Agha Ali, one of the greatest merchants of his time, built this house in 1136. This complex is known as one of the most magnificent examples of Qajar architecture. The principles and methods of Iranian architecture have been used along with the climatic and regional characteristics.  Since the house is built in a very hot and dry area, it has very high walls to prevent the flow of sand from the surrounding deserts, and its gate is very high and magnificent.

All the parts of the house are completely symmetrical. A large kitchen with a large warehouse provides the food needs of this complex. Haj Agha Ali's house also has 4 courtyards and 3 vestibules through which different parts of the house can be accessed.

One of the most beautiful parts of Haj Agha Ali's house is Hozkhaneh Hall which is built on two floors and has several rooms on the upper floor. This hall is the widest indoor space of the house and in the middle is a pergola that provides light to the pool area.  The rectangular pool was connected to the side courtyards and its water was supplied from the aqueduct.

One of the attractions of the pool house are the prominent beds with Islamic designs. In addition, the divans inside the houses are beautiful and carefully designed as a place to entertain guests.