Le Retour

Beijing
People's Republic of China
January 29, 2008

Dear Family and Friends,

When I was a boy, one of my favorite piano works was a set of short studies called "Twenty Five Progressive Pieces," the Opus 100 of Johann Friedrich Burgmuller. I played all the pieces, including the vigorous "Arabesque," Barcarolle" and "Tarantelle," and the melodic and lyrical "Innocence," "Pastorale" and "Tendre Fleur." One piece had a lasting impression. It is called "Le Retour" or "The Return."

"Le Retour" is written in a short sonata form. One theme is introduced and then repeated; then another is played and repeated. The piece closes with the original graceful theme that is both melancholy and hopeful.

Like "Le Retour," my return to Beijing is a little sad but filled with the expectation that the final days of this trip will repeat the vigorous and melodic themes of my initial visit.

{C}

January 30, 2008 Clear and cold

Leaving China Today

Dear Family and Friends,

Today, the CNN weather reporter announced, "In China, it is the coldest winter in decades." Beijing is unusually cold. Earlier this week there was a big snowstorm in Shanghai in the south, also unusual.

Thick white clouds of steam drift skyward from the tall brick smokestacks of the coal furnaces that are working overtime to keep up with the increase in demand.

There are coal shortages and water shortages and brownouts and blackouts.

At the height of this Spring Festival travel time, transportation is disrupted in many places.

Despite the delays and the chilly restaurants and hotel lobbies, I admit I am beginning to enjoy this winter season.

Islands and Lakes
Bangkok, Thailand June 20, 2008

Dear Family and Friends,

Selamat,

I got "itchy feet." I decided to "get out of the house" and "hit the road."

On Sunday night I am flying south to an island, a very big island. I wanted to know just how big it is, so I did some research on the largest islands in the world.

Australia and Antarctica are surrounded by water but geographers define them as continental land masses rather than islands. Greenland is the largest island in the world.

The Grand Mosque
Medan
North Sumatra
Republic of Indonesia
June 25, 2008

Dear Family and Friends,

Salamat Pagi. Good Morning.

The Mesjid Raya or Grand Mosque in Medan is truly a grand structure. Commissioned by the sultan in 1908, the Moroccan style building has ornate carvings, Italian marble, and stained glass from China.

Since Islam prohibits the artistic depiction of any living creature, Muslim artists and artisans must use their talents to create unusual geometric shapes and forms. Although this mosque is one of the largest in Indonesia, the pastel green and white Italian marble lends a feeling of lightness and delicacy. The enormous black domes are unique and add a feeling of great power to the surrounding buildings and grounds, and to the mosque itself.

Bukit Lawang
North Sumatra
Indonesia
June 27, 2008

Dear Family and Friends,

The Rindu Alam Hotel sits along the banks of the Bohorok River, a rocky, mountain stream that runs into the Batang Sarangan, a river that flows northeast into the Selat Melaka, the Straits of Malacca and the Andaman Sea.

The Bohorok is what you would expect from a jungle-mountain stream -- rough, cold water, lush green hills nearby and a blue-gray sunset that consumes the batteries in my camera.

A victim of the flash flood that tore through here five years ago, the Rindu Alam has newly furnished rooms and many young trees and flowers. But I didn't come here to see the flora. I came for the fauna.

{C}

Berastagi 
North Sumatra
Republic of Indonesia

June 29, 2008

Meine Kinderlein,

In the summertime, when I was a young boy, my parents scooped me off the streets of New York and carted me and my sister Paula up to "the mountains." "The mountains" is how we New Yorkers refer to the Catskill Mountains, a cool two-hour drive north of the hot City.

The mothers and children usually stayed all summer. The women played mahjong and canasta and tended to their family. We children swam, played ball and took short hikes. We put on shows. The big event every day was when the bundle of mail was delivered to the RFD mailbox on the main road. We argued over who would sort the letters and bring them to the families. And once a week, the Krug's Bakery truck showed up. They had the best powdered donuts and crusty blueberry pies you ever tasted. With home made ice cream on top.

The fathers came up from The City on Friday night. Mom was cooking happily and we anxiously-awaiting kids always sang, "Daddy, what did you bring me?" Daddy drove back to work early Monday morning. Much later I learned that the round-trip weekend drive was known affectionately as "the bull run."

In "the mountains" there was a well-established institution known as the "Kukh-aleyns”.  "Kukh-aleyns” literally means to cook alone or to cook for yourself. Here's the way it worked: in a large boarding house, several families had a bedroom room or two upstairs. On the main floor was a spacious, open area with ten or fifteen small kitchens, side by side. Each kitchen had a stove, sink, a refrigerator, some cabinets and a dinette set. Every mother cooked alone for her children, and each family ate separately, but all at the same time in the large and noisy dining room.

I thought that the"Kukh-aleyns”was indigenous and unique to The Catskills. Turns out that the idea is centuries old and practiced until this very day in the Batak villages in the Karo Highlands of North Sumatra.