Bangkok
Thailand
January 5, 2005

Dear Family and Friends,

Every Lonely Planet guidebook has a tag line on the front cover:

The Thailand book has "What to Do in the Land of Wats."

The Austria book has "The Hills Are Alive."

The Southwest France book - "From Hot Springs to Holy Shrines."

The Los Angeles book - “From Collagen to Celluloid.”

The tag line for the Myanmar (Burma) book is “Should you go? See inside for details.”

January 12, 2005

Yangon. A cacophony of traditional markets - chicken butchers at the ready; Christian churches - "Merry Christmas" banners flying; Mosques - young boys give me a tour; Hindu temples - colorful ornate sculptures; British colonial buildings - gazing lions atop imposing brick walls; shops, stalls, sidewalk vendors.

Sule Paya. In the center of Yangon, its 46m high golden zedi (gently tapering cylindrical cone) serving as my orientation point whenever I got lost.

In and around Yangon, I found many other excellent Buddhist sights:

One of my favorites is the Botataung Paya:

Mandalay
Myanmar
January 14, 2005

Dear Family and Friends,

"Min gala ba" . . . Hello, I could begin my long letter

THIS WAY: "Jan, an American man, is sitting with Nori, his wife, Nana, and their friend Yumi, all from Japan; and Lorenzo, from Switzerland. We are watching a young waitress debone a Peking Duck in the Western Park Chinese Restaurant in Yangon, Myanmar."

OR THIS WAY: "I am sitting at a small café at a busy intersection of downtown Yangon (Rangoon), dizzy from the dust and the teeming traffic, munching on breaded, deep-fried greens (don't ask) and washing down my oily snack with an energy-boosting glass of juice, freshly squeezed from a stick of sugar cane. Add a splash of fresh lime."

OR THIS WAY

"I am eating an Indian dinner across the street from The Unity Hotel in Mandalay: Chapati, freshly kneaded, rolled, and grilled by an assembly line of men and women, chicken curry, potato curry and Chinese tea."

I WILL BEGIN THIS WAY:

January  15, 2005

From Yangon I flew north to Heho, purportedly the smallest commercial landing strip in the world; taxi to Nyaungshwe to visit Inle Lake.

Nyaungshwe. A busy little town with several shrines, monasteries and stupas to climb. I chanced upon a workshop - women weaving bamboo mats. And the staff at my hotel were the most hospitable, generous, gentle: "More tea, sir? More tea, sir?" And local food specialties so delicious I dare not describe.

Mandalay

Myanmar

January 11, 2005

Dear Family and Friends,

Today is a day for a quiet stroll.

After breakfast at the hotel, I stroll over to the main market - three floors of dozens of small stalls selling dry goods and clothing and cosmetics, house wares and electronics.  I buy a small piece of red and gold-threaded floral design fabric to add to my collection. Next I stroll out to the street for a coffee under the clock tower.

Then I stroll towards Strand Street which could only mean the The River. The guidebook says, "There is always something happening there." Mandalay is very spread out so I stroll about half way to the river and hail a tri-shaw.

Pyin U Lwin, Shan State

Myanmar

Sunday January 16, 2005

Dear Family and Friends,

This morning I am having a hot cup of real coffee.

Most of the coffee in Myanmar has been "Coffee Mix." A packet of instant coffee, sugar and powdered milk. Just add hot water.

Thankfully, coffee is grown in the hills nearby. Pyin U Lwin, an old British "hill station" in the mountains is just 67 kilometers east of Mandalay.

And hot is what I need. This morning I could see my breath! Man, it's cold. Osama was good enough to make some vegetable soup for breakfast. I dined out in the sun, with several layers of clothing. I remembered to bring along my scarf and hat, but I neglected to bring my woolen gloves. Why in the world did I pack them if not for mornings like this?